Skincare used to be fairly simple. Cleanse, moisturize, maybe sunscreen if you were paying attention. But over the past decade, routines have grown dramatically more complex. Toners, essences, exfoliating acids, and multiple serums layered one after another have turned what was once basic self care into elaborate product lineups.
In dermatology offices, however, the results of these routines often tell a different story. Instead of calmer, healthier skin, many people are showing up with irritation, breakouts, and compromised skin barriers from using too many active ingredients at once.
Dermatologist Dr. Hallie McDonald, co-founder of the skincare brand ERLY, has seen this shift firsthand. After treating a growing number of patients experiencing reactions from overly complicated regimens, she began thinking more critically about what effective skincare actually needs. Her answer is surprisingly simple: fewer products, thoughtfully formulated, that support the skin barrier rather than overwhelm it.
When More Becomes Too Much
The skin barrier plays a central role in skin health. It protects against environmental irritants, prevents excessive water loss, and helps the skin maintain balance. When the barrier is functioning properly, the skin is calm, resilient, and hydrated.
But when too many active ingredients are layered together, that barrier can quickly become compromised.
“When you layer multiple actives like retinoids, exfoliating acids, and brightening agents, you disrupt the skin barrier,” Dr. McDonald explains. “That can lead to increased transepidermal water loss, redness, stinging, acne, perioral dermatitis, and eczema.”
Ironically, many people respond to these reactions by adding even more products in an attempt to correct the problem.
“I see this every single day,” she says. “Patients come in with adverse side effects from their skincare routines and show me ten different products they’ve been using to try to fix the issue. The solution is often just to simplify everything and go back to basics.”
The Problem With Skincare Trends
Part of the challenge is the speed at which skincare trends spread online. Many routines circulating on social media prioritize dramatic visuals or novelty rather than long term skin health.
“A lot of social media skincare trends are created to capture attention,” Dr. McDonald explains. “They often prioritize dramatic visuals or extreme results over science and safety.”
One recent example is the trend known as skin flooding, where people layer multiple hydrating toners, essences, and serums in an attempt to saturate the skin with moisture.
While hydration is important, the skin can only absorb so much at one time.
“Beyond a certain point, you’re really just increasing cost and complexity,” she says. “Excessive layering can also lead to pilling or clogged pores. A well formulated serum with hyaluronic acid followed by a moisturizer to seal it in is usually sufficient.”
Another trend that concerns Dr. McDonald is the growing practice of chasing the UV index, where people track daily UV levels to intentionally time sun exposure for tanning.
“This is incredibly dangerous,” she explains. “A tan is actually a sign of skin damage, and UV radiation is a known carcinogen. If someone wants the appearance of a tan, a sunless tanner is a far safer option.”
Returning to the Essentials
Healthy skin rarely requires an elaborate routine.
According to Dr. McDonald, the core elements of effective skincare remain remarkably simple. A gentle cleanser, a daytime moisturizer that includes broad spectrum sun protection, and a nourishing nighttime moisturizer form the foundation of long term skin health.
These basics support the skin barrier, protect against environmental stressors, and maintain hydration without overwhelming the skin with unnecessary ingredients.
That philosophy ultimately inspired Dr. McDonald to co found the skincare brand ERLY, a line built around hypoallergenic, fragrance free formulations designed to simplify routines rather than complicate them.
“As a dermatologist, I was seeing an exponential rise in patients experiencing adverse effects from overly complicated routines,” she says. “Social media was driving a market saturated with harsh ingredients, heavy fragrances, and trends that didn’t prioritize barrier health.”
She also began thinking about how these trends were influencing younger consumers, including her own children.
“The gap I saw was for gentle, multitasking products that support the skin barrier while still delivering visible results,” she explains. “Products that work for all ages and skin types without requiring a complicated routine.”
ERLY’s approach reflects that thinking. The brand’s tightly curated lineup allows users to personalize their skincare with targeted serums while still maintaining a simple foundation routine.
The Future of Skincare May Be Simpler
If there is one shift emerging in the skincare conversation today, it may be a growing appreciation for restraint. As dermatologists continue to see the effects of overly aggressive routines, the conversation is gradually moving back toward barrier support, gentle ingredients, and intentional simplicity.
For Dr. McDonald, the most important step anyone can take for their skin has nothing to do with the number of products they use.
“Wear a broad spectrum sunscreen every single day,” she says. “Up to eighty percent of visible aging is caused by cumulative sun exposure. Protecting your skin from UV damage preserves collagen, prevents pigmentation, and significantly reduces the risk of skin cancer.”
In a skincare landscape filled with endless steps and new trends, that advice remains refreshingly simple.
